Gucci revives 1990s glamour under Sabato De Sarno. See the key pieces, why now, and how to wear the comeback without looking dated.
Sleek leather. Square toes. A flash of gloss that feels familiar in the best way. Gucci leans into its 1990s DNA, and the message lands fast: streamlined silhouettes, city polish, a mood that nods to night. This is not costume. It is a sharpened wardrobe built for now.
The context matters. Sabato De Sarno, who unveiled his first Gucci runway in Milan in September 2023, is dialing into the decade that cemented the house’s global magnetism under Tom Ford in 1994. The timing tracks with the business backdrop. Kering stated in its April 2024 update that Gucci revenue declined 18 percent on a reported basis in the first quarter of 2024, a reset that often pushes a brand to reconnect with what made it irresistible. The new drop does that with discipline.
Gucci and the 1990s: what the new collection really brings
The main idea is clear: elevate the everyday with 90s clarity. Think precise jackets, lean pencil skirts, sheer shirts, buttery leather, and quiet hardware that still reads Gucci. The GG presence sits low-key on shoulder bags, not screaming, just there.
There is history in these cuts. Tom Ford took the helm in 1994 and injected a clean sensuality that defined the late 90s. Velvet tailoring, stretch jersey, satin shirts, the G-buckle belt – all became cultural markers. De Sarno does not replay greatest hits. He trims them, pares them back, and keeps the shine under control.
Dates anchor the story. The debut for Spring 2024 arrived in Milan in September 2023, then a Fall 2024 runway followed in February 2024 with more city tailoring and short hemlines. The thread stays consistent across seasons: pared-down sexiness, wearable during the day, a switch to night with lipstick and a heel. Simple as that.
Sabato De Sarno, Tom Ford and the 90s codes revived
Missteps happen when nostalgia turns literal. Head-to-toe archive references can skew costume and add years visually. The new Gucci avoids that trap by keeping proportion modern – mid-rise instead of ultra-low, a straighter toe box instead of the knife point, a cropped jacket that meets a high waist rather than baring the entire torso.
A concrete reference point helps. In 1996, the red velvet tailoring and white jersey dresses became shorthand for Tom Ford-era glamour. Today’s iteration plays in matte leathers and crisp wool, then uses a precise patent accent or a glint of hardware to nod to that gloss. It reads grown, not throwback.
The business needle is part of the narrative. Kering’s April 2024 communication cited a comparable decline at group level and an 18 percent reported drop for Gucci in Q1 2024. Reconnecting with customers often starts with house codes. A 1990s lens brings instant recognition while leaving space for a younger, millenial shopper who wants ease first and logo second.
How to wear Gucci’s 90s revival now without the time machine
Start with one piece that carries the decade’s attitude and keep the rest quiet. A square-toe loafer or slingback grounds a look. A lean pencil skirt in leather or wool changes posture instantly. A sheer shirt over a sleek camisole works with denim at lunch and a tailored short at night.
Balance is the trick. If the skirt is short, choose a longer jacket. If the top is sheer, go opaque below. For color, hold the palette to two tones. Black with chocolate, camel with off-white, or red with ink blue delivers the 90s snap without shouting.
Accessories do the heavy lifting. The GG belt in a slim width reads current. A small shoulder bag with a structured flap taps the era’s proportions while keeping phones and keys in check. Jewelry stays minimal – one chain, one ring – letting fabric and cut do the talking.
Why this works now comes down to rhythm. After years of maximal prints and oversized volume, a cleaner line feels refreshing and efficient. The 1990s references build recognition fast, yet De Sarno’s discipline keeps the silhouette agile for commutes, meetings, and late dinners. The fashion memory is there. The life-proof functionality is, too.
For those who follow the market story, one last note ties it together. Tom Ford’s appointment in 1994 repositioned Gucci decisively. De Sarno’s 2023 arrival resets the dial with a similar clarity, just tuned to today’s pace. The result: familiar heat, calibrated for a new cycle.