Everyone expected another little tweed jacket. Instead, Chanel sent out a jupe slip tweed that slid around the hips with lingerie ease. Not stiff, not prim. A whisper of bias cut meeting the house’s most iconic fabric. On the catwalk, that tension looked new, wearable, almost effortless.
The clue has been clear across recent shows. During Fall-Winter 2022/23 in Paris on 8 March 2022, the brand covered models in soft-focus tweed from head to toe. The Métiers d’Art 2023/24 défilé in Manchester on 7 December 2023 pivoted tweed toward street and city silhouettes. Under Virginie Viard, who took the reins in 2019 and exited on 5 June 2024, the skirt morphed into a lithe, calf-skimming piece that reads modern. That is the one people type into search boxes right now.
Why the Chanel jupe slip tweed lands so well on and off the runway
The main idea is simple: merge the sensual line of a slip skirt with the character of tweed. Slip skirts can cling and feel thin. Tweed brings grain, depth, and just enough weight so the hem glides instead of grabbing the leg.
There is a small problem many hit at home. Tweed can add bulk if the cut is straight. Chanel’s answer on the catwalk: a bias or slightly A-line cut, often mid-calf, with a clean waist and a discreet lining. That balance keeps movement.
Observing the looks, styling stays light. A fine knit, a neat cardigan, a short jacket, flat ballerinas, sometimes a simple belt. The message feels consistent: let the texture do the talking, not the hardware.
How to style the tweed slip skirt now, using Chanel’s cues
Real life asks for easy formulas. The runway already handed them over, and they translate without drama.
- Go mid-calf or just below the knee for that long line. Mini kills the slip effect.
- Pick a bias cut or gentle A-line. Straight cuts can look boxy in tweed.
- Keep tops thin: ribbed tank, silk shirt, fine merino. Bulk on bulk fights the eye.
- Add flats or low heels. Chanel ballet flats make sense. Slingbacks too.
- Choose quiet color mixes: black and white, ecru and navy, soft pink on gray.
- Texture match: smooth leather bag against the nubby skirt sharpens the look.
- Cool weather move: sheer tights and a cropped jacket to keep proportions clean.
Dates and shows to know : Chanel, tweed, and the défilé
Facts anchor the trend. Chanel’s relationship with tweed traces to the 1920s, when Gabrielle Chanel lifted menswear fabrics into womenswear. After a pause during the war years, the tweed suit returned with the 1954 comeback collection in Paris.
Modern runway milestones are clear. Karl Lagerfeld took over in 1983 and kept evolving tweed for 36 years until 2019. Virginie Viard, named in 2019, leaned into ease and movement: the Fall-Winter 2022/23 show on 8 March 2022 in Paris presented softened, all-tweed silhouettes. On 7 December 2023, the Métiers d’Art 2023/24 show in Manchester spotlighted tweed tailored for the street and for night. Chanel announced Viard’s departure on 5 June 2024, closing that chapter.
Across these seasons, the skirt shape shifted. The jupe slip tweed turned into a signature line item, not just a look-book extra. That is why it keeps resurfacing in searches and store edits.
Buying and care : what defines a quality tweed slip skirt
Fabric first. Tweed is a weave, not a fiber. Wool blends wear warm and hold shape. Cotton or silk tweeds feel cooler and drape better for slip cuts. Bouclé adds volume; a tighter tweed stays closer to the body.
Check the cut. A true slip effect usually means bias or a smart panel construction. Lining should be smooth and light so the skirt glides. Hem weight helps the fall without stiffening the swing.
Length matters. Mid-calf delivers the most Chanel-coded line. Petite frames can shorten to just below the knee while keeping the same geometry. Tall frames handle ankle length easily.
Care is straightforward. Brush after wear, rest the garment 24 hours, and spot clean when possible. Steam from the inside to avoid crushing the surface. Tailoring a clean waist or adjusting length is definetly worth it for longevity.