Luxury’s front row just spun again. From Valentino naming Alessandro Michele in March 2024 to Chanel confirming Virginie Viard’s exit on 5 June 2024 without a successor, the creative chessboard resets and sends clear signals to shoppers and markets alike.
The stakes are high and measurable. LVMH posted revenue of 86.2 billion euros in 2023, a record year according to its January 2024 results, while Kering warned in April 2024 that first quarter revenue fell 10 percent on a reported basis and that Gucci declined 18 percent on a comparable basis. New creative leadership aims to refresh desire, pace product, and steady growth where it softened.
New luxury creative directors: the current map of names and dates
Big houses moved fast, others still weigh options. The roster below captures the pivotal appointments and exits shaping the next seasons.
- Valentino appointed Alessandro Michele in March 2024, with his first collection slated for Spring 2025 womenswear (Valentino press release, March 2024).
- Chanel announced the departure of Virginie Viard on 5 June 2024, no successor named at the time of the statement (Chanel statement, 5 June 2024).
- Moschino named Adrian Appiolaza as creative director on 29 January 2024 after a leadership vacuum at the house (Moschino announcement, 29 January 2024).
- Tod’s appointed Matteo Tamburini in January 2024, marking a new chapter for the Italian brand’s design studio (Tod’s Group press release, 15 January 2024).
- Gucci’s Sabato De Sarno showed his debut in September 2023 during Milan Fashion Week after being named in early 2023 (Gucci announcement and MFW schedule, 2023).
- Louis Vuitton’s men’s direction shifted to Pharrell Williams in February 2023, first show staged on Pont Neuf in Paris in June 2023 (LVMH news release, February 2023).
- Alexander McQueen appointed Seán McGirr in October 2023 following Sarah Burton’s exit, first runway in March 2024 (Kering announcement, October 2023).
- Chloé named Chemena Kamali in October 2023, with a runway debut during Paris Fashion Week in February 2024 (Chloé media announcement, October 2023).
Why these changes now: the business context behind the studios
The calendar tells a story. Appointments clustered across late 2023 and the first half of 2024, just as the post boom normalization cooled demand in parts of the sector.
Numbers set the tempo. LVMH reported 2023 revenue of 86.2 billion euros, up year on year, with Fashion and Leather Goods as a key engine of growth (LVMH FY2023 results, January 2024). Kering flagged pressure in 2024, noting a 10 percent revenue decline in the first quarter and a steeper hit at Gucci of 18 percent on a comparable basis, due in part to a transition in product strategy (Kering Q1 2024 results, April 2024). The Valentino deal added another layer, with Kering acquiring a 30 percent stake for 1.7 billion euros in July 2023 and retaining an option to buy full control by 2028 (Kering and Valentino statements, July 2023).
Boardrooms read these indicators and act. Fresh creative direction often arrives with a commercial plan, from new icons to tightened assortments. The goal stays consistent, reach younger audiences without losing core clients, especially millenial and Gen Z shoppers who discovered luxury through sneakers and social video.
Style signals: what the new directors change on the runway and in stores
Creative directors set a mood, then translate it into repeatable product. Sabato De Sarno’s first Gucci show in September 2023 emphasized a cleaner silhouette and daywear, a pivot from maximalist seasons under Alessandro Michele. Pharrell Williams at Louis Vuitton Men embraced pop culture and craft during the June 2023 Paris spectacle, anchoring accessories that scale quickly at retail.
Adrian Appiolaza at Moschino inherits a house built on irony and couture techniques. Expect playful tailoring to be the vehicle, not just slogans. Matteo Tamburini at Tod’s targets elevated essentials for leather goods and ready to wear, fields that can support margin and consistency.
Valentino enters a new orbit with Alessandro Michele. The Roman maison historically leans on eveningwear and red carpet power. A Michele era may widen the daywear and accessory footprint, crucial after Kering’s partial investment in 2023 that set financial expectations in motion.
What to watch in the next 12 months: timing, product, price
Timing drives impact. Collections shown from September 2024 through March 2025 will filter into stores roughly six months later, just as tourism flows and currency swings shape demand. That lag matters for revenue lines disclosed each quarter.
Product tells the truth. Look for three things, coherent leather families with clear names, re imagined house codes like monograms or studs, and entry price items that still feel collectible. If these appear in showrooms and campaigns within weeks of a debut, the machine aligns.
Price architecture also reveals intent. Houses often stabilize entry points while lifting the ceiling on limited editions and couture adjacent pieces. Earnings calls will reflect the mix shift, retailers will adjust buy volumes, and resale data will echo which items gain traction.
One open question remains at Chanel. After confirming Virginie Viard’s departure on 5 June 2024, the house has yet to announce its next creative leadership in public sources. Until that arrives, watch the studio output and runway cadence, the clues often sit there first.