Ballet flats and Mary Janes looked over. Now they sell out, rule runways and flood TikTok. Data and smart styling prove the comeback is real in 2024.
The comeback shoe everyone is suddenly wearing
The pair once called too prim or too simple is everywhere again. Ballet flats and Mary Janes stepped back into the spotlight for 2024, seen on Miu Miu, Prada and Chanel, then snapped up on the high street. The silhouette feels softer, easier, and yes, more modern than it did a decade ago.
The shift did not appear from nowhere. Comfort won ground when dress codes cracked. In 2020, US high heel sales dropped 71 percent compared with 2019, according to The NPD Group. Since then, search and sales data have rewarded flat and retro shapes. Lyst’s Year in Fashion 2023 crowned the Onitsuka Tiger Mexico 66 the product of the year, while the Adidas Samba was named the hottest product in the first quarter of 2023. The message is clear : low profiles lead.
Ballet flats and Mary Janes in 2024 : what changed
Designers reworked the formula. Think supple leather, square or almond toes, flexible soles, ankle straps that feel grown up. Spring Summer 2024 runways showed iterations that read chic, not school uniform. Street style picked the cue, pairing them with oversized denim, tailored shorts or sleek knit dresses.
Price signals say the market followed. On 11 October 2023, Birkenstock went public in New York at a valuation reported around 8.6 billion dollars, per Reuters. Not a ballet flat brand, but a flagship of comfort-first footwear turning mass appeal into momentum. The same appetite powers Mary Janes and flats into bestsellers at luxury and mid market.
Social media sealed the mood. The balletcore wave put soft silhouettes back in feeds, but styling got sharper. Instead of dainty cardigans, flats meet trench coats, cargo pants, even leather. That tension is what makes the comeback stick.
What the data and runways say about the comeback
The NPD Group’s 2020 figure marked a reset in how people dress for work and weekends, pushing brands to invest in flats and lower heels. Lyst’s quarterly indexes through 2023 kept signaling demand for classic, archive friendly models. When timeless sneakers top rankings, adjacent low profile categories often rise in tandem.
Runway receipts confirm it. Miu Miu kept satin and buckled ballerinas on repeat across 2022 to 2024. Prada leaned into slender, glove like shapes. Alaïa’s mesh versions went viral in mid 2023. These are not novelty drops. They build continuity that retailers can stock and that wardrobes can trust.
Retailers responded with depth rather than one off trends. More widths, rubber injected soles for city pavements, and resilient napa leathers appeared in 2023 and 2024 deliveries. The goal is simple : keep the look, add durability.
How to wear ballet flats and Mary Janes now
Many fear looking childish or too polished. The fix sits in balance and texture, not in buying a dozen pairs. Small shifts change everything.
- Anchor them with structure : straight leg jeans, a crisp shirt, a boxy blazer.
- Play with contrast : shiny patent flats against raw denim or a slouchy knit.
- Mind the toe shape : square or almond toes read fresher than narrow rounds.
- Choose straps wisely : a single strap feels sleek, multiple straps skew playful.
- Add height subtly : a low block heel or a tiny hidden wedge refines the line.
- Think pavement proof : rubber outsole or a thin lug keeps them city ready.
- Try socks intentionally : thin rib socks in a tonal shade look editorial, not school.
Why now and what to buy first
Three forces line up. Comfort became non negotiable after 2020. Nostalgia cycles moved from Y2K sneakers to ladylike shapes. Office style relaxed just enough to let flats lead without feeling underdressed. Once those planets align, the shoe returns and stays.
Start with one pair that works hard. If the wardrobe leans tailored, go for a black leather Mary Jane with a single strap and a slightly squared toe. If days skew casual, a soft ballet flat with a flexible sole and a subtle bow brings ease. Neutral tones extend outfits, but a red or metallic pair delivers instant energy.
Fit still rules. Look for a secure heel grip, no toe pinching, and a sole with a hint of cushion. An insole can add arch support if needed. Care is simple : a protective spray for leather, gentle spot cleaning for satin, and resoling when wear shows. Cost per wear drops fast when a flat walks from desk to dinner. The trend returns, but the best pairs feel definitly permanent.