The era of the wrist-dominating 48 mm hulk is losing steam. Scroll any street-style feed or peek into a meeting room and the story repeats: men reach for slimmer cases and cleaner profiles, or skip analog entirely for a smartwatch that slides under a cuff.
This is not a niche wave. Fashion shows cut back on oversized accessories, resale platforms highlight vintage-friendly sizes, and even heritage brands revive compact icons. The landscape moved fast, yet the question lingers for many: why did big watches fall out of favor in the first place?
From oversized to right-sized : what changed on men’s wrists
The visual cue came first. Case diameters that hovered around 44 to 46 mm in the late 2000s now often land between 36 and 40 mm. Brands signaled the pivot clearly. Rolex returned the Explorer to 36 mm in 2021. Tudor launched the Black Bay 54 at 37 mm in 2023. TAG Heuer’s Carrera Glassbox arrived in 39 mm the same year.
Data check : smartwatches, vintage fever, and the resale effect
The numbers back the shift. Counterpoint Research reported that Apple accounted for over half of global smartwatch revenue in 2023, cementing a mainstream preference for thinner, wearable-first tech that feels more like jewelry than gear (Counterpoint Research, 2024).
On the mechanical side, the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry said exports hit a record 26.7 billion Swiss francs in 2023, up 7.6 percent, while units fell 5.9 percent to 16.9 million. Fewer watches, higher value, and a tilt toward refined pieces over massive statements (FH Switzerland, 2024).
Resale changed the playbook too. McKinsey projected the global pre-owned watch market to reach 29 to 32 billion dollars by 2025, driven by collectors and first-time buyers who often favor versatile, vintage-correct sizes that wear well daily (McKinsey, 2021).
Style and comfort : the real reasons big watches fell out of favor
Comfort leads. A large case spreads weight, digs into wrists, and fights shirt cuffs. A watch between 36 and 40 mm usually sits flatter, clears sleeves, and disappears until needed. After years of remote work and hybrid offices, people want light, easy pieces that do not demand adjustment every hour.
Proportion followed. Clothing silhouettes slimmed down again, so oversized dials look off on many wrists. Smaller cases restore balance between strap width, lug span, and hand size. The effect is subtle but powerful in photos and in person. It reads sharp without trying.
Function changed habits. Phones stole the role of oversized watches as conversation starters. If a wrist piece stays, it either adds tech utility or delivers design nuance. That is where elegant mid-size cases shine. They shift attention from sheer scale to finishing, color, and texture. Discretion sells in boardrooms and at dinners.
How to choose the right watch size today
Finding the sweet spot is simpler than it looks. Start with how the watch sits, not just the number on the spec sheet. Lug to lug length matters as much as diameter, especially on slim wrists.
Here is a quick fit method that works across brands and budgets.
- Measure wrist circumference in millimeters. Many land between 150 and 185 mm.
- Translate that to a starting case: 34 to 36 mm for wrists near 150 to 160 mm, 36 to 39 mm for 160 to 175 mm, 39 to 41 mm for 175 to 185 mm.
- Check lug to lug. Aim for a span that stays within your wrist width to avoid overhang.
- Mind thickness. Under 12 mm slides under cuffs. Over 13 mm feels sportier.
- Try straps. Leather and fabric taper visually, bracelets wear larger. A slim strap can make 1 to 2 mm feel smaller.
Two more signals close the loop. First, designers are building complications in compact formats again. Chronographs and GMTs now arrive in 38 to 40 mm cases without looking cramped, a feat that felt rare a decade ago. Second, the rise of unisex drops widened the size window for everyone, which softened the old “bigger is better” mindset that dominated the 2010s.
Does that mean large watches are done. Not quite. Divers above 42 mm still serve big wrists and bold tastes. Field watches and pilots can carry presence without weight if the lugs curve and the case is short. But the center of gravity of style definetly moved. If versatility, comfort, and resale value rank high, the modern sweet spot sits in that 36 to 40 mm band, with smartwatches acting as the ultra-practical alternative.